Gucci Green

            While we are on the topic of innovation in the industry let's talk about Gucci.  This Fall Gucci and Safilo will unveil sustainable eye wear. The product is made from acetate, but it is a new variety that contains more naturally occurring ingredient. They come with matching eco friendly cases and some have hints of red or green to correspond with their website.
            There's not really that much to say about it except they are awesome and they maintain the possitive image of the company.

           Ps. They are extending it to sunglasses too
                                          Love em'!!!
            

Virtually Reality

            Just when you thought that celebrities and reality stars couldn't get any bigger, Fusion Brands proved otherwise. The company, dealing in cosmetics, plans to turn a fictional brand of makeup from soap, Young and the Restless, into a reality. It's reverse product placement if you ask me. Now instead of placing products in movies and TV shows, the shows are placing brands into the real world.
            The idea has been heralded as revolutionary, and I have to say, I'd agree with that. It creates just one more way to drive consumer purchasing. They are goinig as far as to plug new products within the dialogue of the show.  Though I am not a soap watcher myself, I do know there are millions of dedicated fans that will clamor for a piece of "The Young and the Restless." I don't doubt we will soon see this "reverse placement" happening elsewhere with other fictional products.
             At the moment I'm struggeling to find the words for just how much I love this idea, it's creative evolution that meshes perfectly with the pop culture obsessed society we are.
            What do you think???




Source:
http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news?module=tn#/article/beauty-industry-news/fusion-straddles-fantasy-and-reality-with-jabot-3630205

Chinalization

            Quite a few posts back I talked about China. More specifically, how the Chinese are becoming huge luxury goods consumers. As China has been on the path to development they have also been becoming wealthier, in large part due to having their hand in the massive pot of textiles. China is now the second largest economy in the world. Development of any nation occurs by placing a higher dollar value on the goods and service a country produces, among other things.
             In the realm of textiles, globalization, and free trade (which largely determines where goods will be produced based on the lowest prices, and trade agreements), China is beginning to feel the effects of it's development. An article I just read speaks with regard to China and India, who is also in a developing stage. The article notes that  wages in China have climbed from $65 to $100 a month to $300 a month. And that the middle class would grow from 80 million in 2007 to and expected 700 million by 2020. The rise of the middle class has caused even Chinese textile companies to begin to produce in less expensive locations like Vietnam. While China is still a top producer/ manufacturer they are beginning to loose the price competitiveness that got them business in the first. Cotton spinners in Bangladesh raised their wage costs by double this year and are still the cheapest in Asia.
           To continue development China will have to compete on a level other than price and will perhaps have to rethink their focus to an industry that is not as chintzy.
           The Chinese are no longer just producers consumers, and there is a growing need to satisfy consumer demand. The Chinese consumer has begun to be recognized as many designers and retailers are starting to venture into China.
            The point of free trade and globalization is to among other things help less developed countries become more developed. China is a perfect example of its positive effects.



Source:
http://www.wwd.com/markets-news/olah-the-american-classic-goes-global-3615947?navSection=package&navId=3616508

            I was under the impression that the mall was a dying or at least injured retail format. Part of the problem  is a recent trend towards urbanization and an uptick in the popularity of shopping centers. Not to mention of late malls seem to be the choice destination for old people and teens. Maybe my perception of the mall is a little bit skewed living in Savannah, but I feel like shoppers enjoy boutiques and shop in centers. But a new mall on the Hudson River goes against my thoughts on malls and the complex includes more than just shopping.
            The format for the mall is not determined as yet. Retailers have been contacted bu no one has signed on for sure. They would like to see Bloomingdales and Neiman Marcus in the anchor positons but,are not even set on having traditional anchors.If that turns out to be the case it would be really atypical, and it would be interesting what kind of response it would garner.
           The first floor would be the most high end according to WWD. The overall experience is supposed to be bohemian and lie at the bridge, better and contemporary price zones with some luxury stores. The merchandise is supposed to be "more unique and not mainstream". Which it would have to be located in New York and competing with some of the finest retailers in the United States.
          The complex will have a number of eateries, a hotel, apartments, a cultural center, parks, and office space. As if New York was not full enough with shoppers, the mall will have its very own built in network.
           I'm excited about. It seems like a 21st century Mall of America, that is more centered of class.
   


Sources:
http://www.wwd.com/retail-news?module=tn#/article/retail-news/retailing-by-the-river-hudson-yard-s-blueprint-3614213?page=1

The Donald

            Rumor has it that Donald Trump is planning to release a fragrance. I sincerely hope he doesn't because I'm sick of his face. Although of it were a choice between him running for president or him releasing a fragrance I suppose I'd have to choose the latter. Is there anything he won't do for attention or profit?
             Real estate, ties, crappy shows, an obnoxious demeanor, bad hair, and most recently questioning the birth place of our president to gain political momentum are a few reasons why i can't stand the man. He is a sensationalist of the worst degree. What kind of possible presidential candidate also releases a fragrance?
            Ronald Regan was an actor yes, but since the 90's it seems like the amalgamation of politics and celebrity has grown stronger. Sonny Bono, Jesse Ventura, Arnold Swartzenegger, and now The Donald. Seriously? The list has grown less impressive with the passage of time.
            I don't really care if celebrities are endorsing products. Attaching a famous name to something is a great way to make money. But I draw the line at politics. Trump is as unbelievable as Michelle Bachmann, Sarah Palin, and Rand Paul.  And if by some unbelievable happenstance Trump is able to win nomination for president I will leave the country because president of the United States is no way equivalent to the Jack LaLanne power juicer. And no respectable president has a fragrance. Maybe, if it goes far enough, during the primaries he convince Ivanka to sign up for "Dancing with the Stars", the people would love it!          

The GQ Man

            Over the last few months everyone from WWD to Cotton Incorporated to NPD have reported the resurgence of men to the marketplace. For years retailers have concentrated on female shoppers under the assumption that men liked to dress their women in the finest apparel. Coupled with that was a gain in the purchasing power of women due to their presence in the workforce and their increased role as the domestic financial advisers. Men were and remained overshadowed as retailers catered to the needs of women.
           Since the holiday season of 2010 men have been receiving some much overdue attention brought on by spending and growth outpacing women. With Father's Day just around the corner retailers are anxious to take advantage of the new cash cow.
           Categories expected to flourish are basics and replenishment items according to NPD. Traditional Father's Day items such as ties, shirts, and cuff links are also expected to do well. Other stores have seen tailored mens clothing as drivers.
             Men want to look good again. They want options, and they are demanding it now. In a recent study by Cotton Incorporated men admitted to using window displays, peers, and magazines as sources of styling inspiration. They are more conscious of how they look.  I think it's going to be a really exciting event to witness in full swing. It is what I foresee as the coming of the new GQ male.
              It is interesting how the lines of gender are rapidly blurring. Men cook and clean, use personal hygiene products developed for them, are stay at home dad's, and have the option of cosmetics. Women conversely have adopted mens roles, and wear "boyfriend" inspired clothing. This mash up of genders can be seen  right down to children apparel, with the latest trend of unisex styling that goes far beyond yellow and green onesies.
               I feel like the trend in mens has been a long time coming since the adoption of the term metrosexual.. These men were the first, recognized and termed, to take care in their appearance and grooming. I could speculate it just took the rest of the guys a little longer to adopt the idea.



Source:
http://www.wwd.com/retail-news?module=tn#/article/menswear-news/mens-retailers-expect-strong-fathers-day-sales-3610228

The End of an Era

            We have all known for quite some time that digitalization is the present and the future of print. People now go online to do their reading, catch up on news, shop or what have have you. The internet has more doors then imaginable for the access and sharing of information. Like the travel agent, the post office, and countless other industries, the world of publishing has been irrevocably effected by technology. And while I am not sad for the travel agent, because they never offer the best deal, or the post office because of their gross inefficiency, discourteous staff and unreasonable prices, I do feel sad for print literature. Today readers of print are an endangered species in my view. The next generation will probably only know of the Dewey Decimal System through stories told by "old people" about how they used to have to look up books. Sadly they will be not afforded the sensory experience of a book, the feel of its weight or the pages as they glide along fingers, the faint smell of ink, or the dog eared pages that express a books history. As you can probably tell I'm staunchly anti- nook book. But, this is the world we live in today, and despite my personal objections, technology in this arena is moving forward making the art of literature conveniently accessible to the tech hungry masses.
           To this end, Hearst Publishing Co has announced a deal with Apple that "will make them the first big magazine publisher to sell subscriptions for digital editions on the iPad."  Esquire, Popular Mechanics and O will be available next month starting with the July issue for $19.99 a year or $1.99 a month through iTunes. Other publishers such a Conde Naste and Time have failed to come to agreements with Apple in this matter.  And though details of the exact terms of the deal have not been disclosed a spokeswoman for Hearst called it an "equitable and fair agreement to owning customers together." Owning customers together, as a customer I am slightly offended by the choice of wording.  Apple contributes a strong platform for sales and has the resources to accurately and efficiently procure consumer data, something that Hearst is excited about.
            Both companies obviously stand to gain through the pairing and are for the time being leaving other publishers in the dust. 
   

The Face of Beauty

            After last weeks highlight of Walgreens and their serious revamp of their skin and beauty assortment, I wondered just how CVS, their leading competitor was planning to respond. In a way felt badly for them from a personal stand point, silly as it sounds, because I'm a CVS girl. I guess in the same way that I'm a Coke girl......I just say no.....to Pepsi that is. As a child there was a CVS in walking distance from my house so it was easy for my friends and I to make the trip for candy, soda, or, well.....when we got older.....cigarettes. Could we fool the checkout guy became a semi regular event in which only the bravest entered, and sometimes emerged the victor.  So it was in recounting the misadventures of my youth, and the role the local CVS played in my own minor delinquency, that I began to realize my attachment to that silly pharmacy. Hence that tiny pang of sadness I felt upon reading about Walgreens savvy move.
           It didn't take long for CVS to publicly respond to the beauty market challenge set forth by their foe as this week the retailer revealed plans to launch Nuance, a beauty line by Salma Hayek in August.  The endeavor has been underway for years by the actress who's grandmother was a cosmetologist herself. CVS plans to sell the product in 7,000 stores and online at affordable price points fitting their consumer. The value consciousness not forgotten by CVS is quite different to Walgreens upscale luxury approach. While it remains to be seen how effective Walgreens efforts will be, CVS's plans are in my mind a sure fire winner.

           They are coming at it the right way. First, celebrity products usually equate to sales and Salma Hayek is everybody's girl. Not only is she and award winning actress, she is also the picture of graceful aging. She's as attractive today as she was 10 years ago, no doubt due to a combination of good genes and her grandmothers secret cosmetic concoctions. She also has an enthusiasm for her product that even the best actress could not imitate. Lastly, she's Mexican, a perfect face for CVS catering to the ever expanding Hispanic market.      

Scentsory

            The fragrance and flavor market has been the slowest to recover post recession. The are many factors to consider when pondering the question of why.
            First there is just so much competition. Every Tom, Dick and Harry is releasing scents in to the market leaving consumers with so many options it's just plain confusing.
             Second, and perhaps the most important, the gen Y consumer it not buying it. Many of them don't seem to be into fragrance. If retailers can't find a way to woo this market the implications could be far reaching. Who knows if this market will remain in a permanently fragrance free state or if they will grow into it. 
           Third, on line sales are harder for perfumeries. People will purchase a fragrance they know they like online but may not necessarily be so adventurous as to purchase a new fragrance. At least with apparel you can make a fair approximation of size or fit. The same cannot be said for perfume. Consumers may be given a description of the scent as "floral" or "citrus" based but who really knows what that means.
            I read a book a while back that predicted scents would be used to provide the consumer with a multi-sensory experience for the consumer. Now two years later we see Ralph Laurens 4D fashion show. The forth element, scent. I believe that in the coming years we will be seeing a lot more of this type of innovation in the world of fragrances. It is necessary to push into new areas due to the strong disadvantages in this market.

<iframe width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4S4xbKYw528" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>           

One to Watch- Walgreen's

            Gone are the day's of the corner chemist. These days drug stores fall somewhere between a grocery store and a convince store. And for sure they can be found almost every  street corner and intersection nationwide. Some shoppers frequent them for little things they need to pick up on the way home from work, while others, like my mother, live there. They have almost anything you could possibly need including milk and frozen dinners, prescriptions and photo development. And hey, they offer coupons and customer cards to boot. The benefits are almost endless, I mean who wouldn't pay a few cents more to save the time it would require to drive all the way over to the grocery store? Really in many cases the price of the gas to get there may even amount to the savings. The CVS's and Walgreen's really have it made.What else could they offer?
              Well in a recent article in WWD I read that Walgreen's is making moves to revamp their beauty assortment. The retailer too note of Duane Reade's Look Boutique which featured high end cosmetics. They will be focusing on premium priced beauty and beauty advisers. In addition they are changing the store format to fit the new high end products.
                They have already transformed one of there Manhattan locations to test the idea. The new format is "open and airy", and keeps with the "bohemian feel of the neighborhood". The layout is sleek, well lit and affords customers ample space to browse. The primary focus of the will be in skin care but Walgreen's has no plans to exclude it's current customer. They just want to include a new one. Prices range from $25 to $50.
                 Though no details have been provided as to the exact locations of the new stores they will probably be in urban areas that have the traffic and the market for them. Considering how often people tend to stop in these store for sheer convenience I think it's was a really smart move on the part of Walgreen's. I mean why not pick up you skin care regime there if they offer it. Visually the new format is impressive for a drugstore and I feel like it will effect the way people see beauty product's at pharmacy's. It has a very boutique like yet urban presence and I'd imagine quite a different, classier, feel. Stepping up their offering in this way, and through skin care is intelligent. There is not one person who does not want to look or feel better about themselves, particularly in this aging market.

                  So to all the CVS's of the world watch out because Walgreen's is bringin' it in a big way.    


 

A Fairy Tale Wedding

            Our fascination with celebrity climbs to nearly inconceivable heights when royalty is involved. One could understand the recent "Royal Wedding" craze if perhaps we were British. But here in America? They are not our Monarchs. We were not raised with a King and Queen, but we did have a princess or two.  
            Perhaps, at least for us gals, it has to do with fairy tales. In fact I'm quite certain of it. We are raised to believe that one day we will all find our very own prince charming. He will swoop in and with a single embrace rescue us from the peril of an otherwise mundane existence. His charm and charisma will be so overpowering that we fall madly in love and "live happily ever after".  Yes that's exactly how the story goes, Cinderella, Snow White, and Rapunzel told us so.
             As we age we come to find that these are just stories. Some of us will find love while others of us may eternally be kissing frogs........Enter Kate Middleton, the embodiment of every little girls dream.

             With the impending royal nuptials on the horizon the excitement is reaching a fever pitch and I'm not the first person to notice. Products big and small feature the happy couple and offer you "commemorative" wares guaranteed to provide you with a tangible memory. Marketers and product developers act like masterful puppeteers pulling the heartstrings of every little girl inside who dreams of being a princess. Everything from tee shirts to teabags and royal refrigerators feature the pair, oh and who could forget the replica engagement ring. Television stations across the globe clamor for ratings broadcasting the event. And then of course there is still the question of who will be Kate's dress designer. Everyone from big names like Sarah Burton to the more obscure names of Bruce Oldfield or Jasper Conran. No one knows but whoever it is can expect instant notoriety.
                 The media was on alert with the wedding of Charles and Diana in the 1980's but with today's increased availability of information and media it is far more the case. The intimacy, and to an extent the royal pomp has been diminished in favor of a relentless profit parade. It's a dream come true for anyone with some tacky royal memorabilia.
                 Personally, I can't wait for the whole event to be over, because it's too much, it's everywhere, and it's really just getting plain annoying. 





Sources
http://fashionista.com/2011/04/report-kate-middletons-dress-designer-revealed/
http://entertainment.blogs.foxnews.com/2011/03/24/prince-william-and-kate-middleton-commemorative-refrigerator-hits-the-market/
http://www.people.com/people/package/article/0,,20395222_20474794,00.html

   
           

Our Boyfriend

The question in the papers this week is whether or not John Galliano will be able to make a comeback to the world of fashion. A land where his reputation for bad behavior is almost as solid as his recognition for his work. I'm sure everyone is informed of his less then graceful exit from Dior a few moths back as a result of anti-Semitic remarks made by the intoxicated designer. 
            In actuality the question is not whether Gallaino will return, instead a question of when. In society, as unfortunate as it may be, celebrities of every kind are permitted to behave in scandalous ways. The repercussions of said behavior are often mild or short lasting. In some cases they may not even exist at all. We the public put celebrities on pedestals, raising them high above ourselves, oftentimes glamorizing their raucous behavior, and boating their egos with constant praise. Equally as much, if not more, we like watching them fall from that pedestal, and take a hard slap off the gro
und of reality. We like to know they are in fact mere mortals like ourselves. Fortunately for the fallen, the blow is often fleeting cured by the admittance of wrong doing and a subsequent trip to rehab.
              The public is like that girl you know who keeps taking her cheating loser boyfriend back. He grovels, sends flowers, and promises to never ever to do it again, and in the space of a few days they are right as rain.
              Gallaino has already taken the steps necessary both apologizing and entering an "intensive" rehab program. The designer also recognized that recovery is "an ongoing process" and has enrolled in an "after care" program. Because our society is prone to forgive those repentant sinners, one often wonders if there is sincerity behind the act  or if it is merely and attempt to salvage a battered career?
              Either way, when all is said and done John Gallaino will be back in business, of that I'm sure. In my opinion, the recent scandal will have no lasting effect on his dollars or his sense ........the comeback might just have to wait....well, probably an extra six months. Although who knows, maybe he'll get time off for good behavior.



http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news?module=tn#/article/fashion-news/can-john-galliano-ever-come-back--3586039

Apples and Bananas

            Apple Inc, always seems to be one step ahead of the competition. Tdown to businesshey have the most technologically advanced products that the rest of the market struggles to copy as fast as possible. Not only do they offer reliable gizmos on the cutting edge accompanied by some of the best customer service I've ever personally experienced, they also have design down pat. Their products are sleek and modern  maintaining the hip image Apple has created for itself.
             With that in mind Apple recently coupled with Incase to produce a new line of iPhone and iPad cases, covers, and sleeves. With the permission of the Andy Warhol Foundation granted, the creations feature some of Warhol's most iconic works including 1966 banana, 1964 "Flower Print", 1966 "Cow Wallpaper", and 1982 "Dollar Sign".
                The marriage of Pop Art icon Andy Warhol and eternally hip Apple couldn't be more perfect! The new product line is available at goincase.com and through Apple stores and retailers worldwide.


Sources:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/04/08/pop-shop-andy-warhol-for-incase/?ref=design
http://www.lorensworld.com/top-picks-/item/834-incase-for-andy-warhol-collection-iphone-case.html

DUDE No.1

            Lately it seems the men, a largely ignored group in retail, are beginning to garner attention. It's become apparent to retailers that there is room for improvement and profitability.While it is true that women still spend more than men it has also true that male spending is on the rise. Men on the whole are becoming more fashion conscious seeking out style in magazines, store windows, and through peers. It seems as though the line between men and women is blurring. Each adapting elements of the other for an increasingly androgynous environment.
           Not only does androgyny apply to apparel, it extends to makeup. Male cosmetics companies are popping up like UK based MYEGO, that sells make up and male grooming products, for one. Other cosmetics brands are extending their product range to include products for men. Most recently Anne McClain founder of MCMC Fragrances in Brooklyn, produced the very first scent for beards. DUDE No.1 as it is cleverly titled is dual purpose first and foremost as a scent with hints of cedar wood, green coriander and pink peppercorn.Second, the organic oils that form the compound serve to moisturize the skin and tames unruly beards. The sleek yet simple packaging fully reflects the new male consumer and is intimidating. It's easy enough even for the lowest maintenance man.

Sources
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/04/12/vain-glorious-dude-no-1-beard-oil/?ref=mens-fashion

Get on the Bus

            The Chinese are the worlds nouveau riche. Currently China is the worlds second largest economy behind the United States. As in many economies the chasm between rich and poor runs deep, but the rich are certainly very, very, rich. What's more, they are big spenders in the luxury goods market. Though foreign companies are branching into the region, opening a business in China can be somewhat of a chore leading many companies to franchises or license their businesses.
             Shopping destinations around the globe in Europe, Asia, and America are recognizing an increase in the presence of the Chinese and their propensity to spend on big ticket items. The tendency is towards guided tours with stops in multiple cities. A recent Women s Wear Daily chronicled one of these tours stopping in New York, Boston, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles. It was like a "power shopping" trip across the country with little else on the agenda, well, aside from meeting former president Bill Clinton and a touch of gambling in Vegas. On this particular shopping excursion Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Chloe, Prada, and Ermendegildo Zenga were favorites. While Slavatore Ferragmo, Celine, and Balencagia were unfamiliar to the group. They were also buying up luxury brand watches, often more than one at a time and dropping as much as $50,000 each with no problem. According to the article, the Chinese concentrate on watches as a means of achieving differentiation and status rather than buying a lot of suits. Some were then even buying new suitcases to store all their treasures. Oh, and did i mention most of there transactions were done in cash!!!
             It is estimated that the Chinese will spend $55 billion on international travel and the number of travelers will increase 12-14% a year. They spend more money abroad than they do at home. With these kinds of numbers I think it would behoove retailers to adjust their game plans and become more China- friendly. Simple things like having a member of staff that speaks the language or having your staff learn a little bit about what the Chinese find offensive. Small investments like these could lead to healthy returns Also, finding ways to increase your brands recognition by the Chinese super spender. The methods could be really simple. In the case of one retailer catalogs were distributed on the bus and members of the tour simply picked out their purchases before arrival. I though it was a great way to ease some of the difficulties encountered with language barriers. The Chinese have no problem spending as long as they perceive excellence in a brand. So it is my suggestion that retailers, hop on the bandwagon or in this case......get on the bus!
           Can you think of any ways retailers could make an effort to appeal to the Chinese???
   
              

This Video is just some more information regarding the increasing economic power of China that I think is relevant.











Information provided by
http://www.wwd.com/retail-news/the-chinese-rich-hit-the-stores-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nse09-dKATI

The Wolf is on the Hunt

            Over recent months LVHM's possible takeover of Hermes has garnered extensive press. Bernard Arnault, the "wolf in cashmere" as he is know in business circles, founder of LVHM, is the shrewdest of businessmen and the toughest opponent in the industry of luxury goods. The company portfolio is vast including not only their namesake items but also brands such as Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Dom Perignon, Givenchy, and most recently majority stock in Bulgari to name a few.
           It was revealed a few months ago that the "wolf" had been quietly acquiring shares of Hermes, a family owned and operated enterprise for generations. Currently LVHM owns a 20% share in the company up from 17.1% in November. Though Arnault claims his interest is to be but "a long-term shareholder of Hermes", can he really be trusted? It would appear through Arnault's continued acquisition of shares that the "wolf" is on the hunt. Stalking his prey in a slow and calculated manner with the lethal strike imminent.The tale it seems, has the makings of a true David and Goliath story. But in this case who's to say that David emerges the victor? The financial might of LVHM may prove too much over time.
          While I admire the man for his ability to craft such a paramount luxury empire, I tend to agree with his critics who blast Arnault for "trading class for mass". Over the past two years the trend, brought on in part by Arnault himself, has been to acquire small family owned businesses and steer them away from the niche markets they once served in favor the masses. The result, in my opinion is a sort of degradation of the brand. Specialness and exclusivity are usurped from the image in favor of profitability. And while I am all for profits, they sometimes do come at a price.
          Past decisions of Arnault have included the sale of Dom Perignon at Costco beside Korbel, and Fendi becoming available outlet malls. In my mind one of the clearest examples of "class for mass" can be seen in the loss of exclusivity that Louis Vuitton bags have experienced. They seem, at least to me, have lost the cache that catapulted them to success in the first place.
           In a recent interview with China Daily Hermes CEO says "LVHM's participation is neither required nor desirable." The fear of many regarding this issue is that if Arnault were to become more than just a "long-term shareholder" of Hermes, as he claims is his sole interest, he would do what he has done in the past and diminish the heritage and craftsmanship associated with the brand. As it stands Hermes handbags such as the Kelly, are coveted possessions of the wealthy. Even the recession did not effect the year long waiting list. They are prized for their quality. Each bag is made by a single craftsperson with a single piece of thread from beginning to end. There is no doubt in my mind that this practice would surely fall to the wayside should Arnault continue to acquire shares in the company.

        Though often, as I have said before I am of the mind that business is business, in this case I'm routing for the underdog. What are your thoughts?










   Content provided by Newsweek, Forbes, and China Daily
   http://blogs.forbes.com/hannahelliott/2011/03/07/lvmh-acquires-majority-stake-in-bulgari/
   http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/xinhua/2011-03-05/content_1939918.html
   http://www.newsweek.com/2010/11/12/the-looming-battle-for-hermes.html

Don't Shoot the Messenger!

Proenza Schouler

            In the realm of retail, and fashion in particular, knock offs are commonplace. Shoppers know that they can count on fast fashion retailers like H&M and Forever 21 to produce styles similar to those seen on catwalks quickly and at an affordable price.  The similarities often outweigh the differences prompting even fashion magazines to devote pages to finding that "look for less". These days knocking off original designs is big business, bringing in big dollars, and big problems.

Mossimo

            Most recently in the news upscale design house Proenza Schouler is peeved to find that mass merchant Target has absconded with their PS1 messenger bag design. At first glance the differences are hardly noticeable, even down to the weight and slouch of the bag. The most obvious differences are the material, quality, and the price. Target's Mossimo bag is made of fake leather retailing for $34.99, while PS1 by Proenza Schouler is 100% leather retailing for $1595.  The designers and the company feel as though they have been robbed. Robbed of potential income for the brand and robbed of their ideas. To add insult to injury, prior to "Bag Gate 2011" Proenza Schouler inked a deal with Target allowing them to re-release 65 designs originally created by the company for Target's "Go International Program". So, not only will Target be receiving revenues from sales of the bag but also from a previous collaboration between the companies.
           In fashion it is hard to protect original ideas from what is essentially legal theft. Incidents like this, however common, raise important questions about what is ethical in business. I tend to be of the mind that business is business. When it comes right down to every decision is made to ensure a profitable bottom line, however unfortunate for the originator of the idea. Yes, Target will make more sales. Yes, they will make more money. Yes, they stole the idea, and yes, if it was my job I might do it too. But I take heart in the fact that the Proenza Schouler customer, different from the Target consumer, will not fall for these dirty tricks and at the end of the day will purchase PS1 in it intended glory. If you want to be in the fashion business things like this are an unavoidable consequence, so don't shoot the messenger.
            What do you think???




Information and Images courtesy of the New York Times
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/25/proenza-schouler-doesnt-care-for-targets-messenger/              




             

Rodarte Takes the Stage

      Few fashion designers have ventured into the world of costume design for major motion pictures. Relatively new to the scene the Mulleavy sisters, founders of Rodarte, have not only garnered headlines for their ready-to- wear collections but have also contributed their creative talents to costume design for the award winning "Black Swan". Riding high on their recent success the sisters refused to rest on their laurels venturing yet again into new territory, specifically the art world.
      Their latest project was a collaboration with The Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. The sisters featured pieces from their Spring 2010 show alongside darker pieces designed for "Black Swan". The end result was both ominous and enchanting. Tutus slowly spinning suspended above the ground were ghostly in their presents. Shadow an light played a large role in the overall effect. The point of all of this was to "defy patrons to see their clothing in a different light".
      By exhibiting their work in an artistic way that is open to the public Rodarte is allowing people up close access to their garments in an intimate setting. They are reaching a new set of potential customers, that because they have seen the garments in such a light, may have an appreciation for the brand that cannot be won through traditional formats. Having a show of this type is a creative and free way to increase brand recognition. Designer works are typically not exhibited in this was until the designer has passed on or has become an icon in the industry.  The sisters seem to be getting a head start.
        Additionally, given our fascination with all things pop culture the Mulleavy sisters involvement with the film and their subsequent display of the costumes alongside their ready-to-wear is a clever way to entice the public to visit. Those that came to see the costumes of "Black Swan" may leave having learned to appreciate fashion on the whole.
         What's more for those that could not make it to the exhibit the sisters will soon be releasing a book entitled "Rodarte: Photographs by Catherine Opie and Alec Soth".  the book will feature the brands signature pieces.
     In my opinion the Mulleavy sisters will be around for a long time, not only because of their success as fashion designers but also because of the "multi, multi, multi channel" visibility of their brand. 

 

  
Information and Images Provided by New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/03/29/fashion/29iht-frodarte-slideshow.html