A Fairy Tale Wedding

            Our fascination with celebrity climbs to nearly inconceivable heights when royalty is involved. One could understand the recent "Royal Wedding" craze if perhaps we were British. But here in America? They are not our Monarchs. We were not raised with a King and Queen, but we did have a princess or two.  
            Perhaps, at least for us gals, it has to do with fairy tales. In fact I'm quite certain of it. We are raised to believe that one day we will all find our very own prince charming. He will swoop in and with a single embrace rescue us from the peril of an otherwise mundane existence. His charm and charisma will be so overpowering that we fall madly in love and "live happily ever after".  Yes that's exactly how the story goes, Cinderella, Snow White, and Rapunzel told us so.
             As we age we come to find that these are just stories. Some of us will find love while others of us may eternally be kissing frogs........Enter Kate Middleton, the embodiment of every little girls dream.

             With the impending royal nuptials on the horizon the excitement is reaching a fever pitch and I'm not the first person to notice. Products big and small feature the happy couple and offer you "commemorative" wares guaranteed to provide you with a tangible memory. Marketers and product developers act like masterful puppeteers pulling the heartstrings of every little girl inside who dreams of being a princess. Everything from tee shirts to teabags and royal refrigerators feature the pair, oh and who could forget the replica engagement ring. Television stations across the globe clamor for ratings broadcasting the event. And then of course there is still the question of who will be Kate's dress designer. Everyone from big names like Sarah Burton to the more obscure names of Bruce Oldfield or Jasper Conran. No one knows but whoever it is can expect instant notoriety.
                 The media was on alert with the wedding of Charles and Diana in the 1980's but with today's increased availability of information and media it is far more the case. The intimacy, and to an extent the royal pomp has been diminished in favor of a relentless profit parade. It's a dream come true for anyone with some tacky royal memorabilia.
                 Personally, I can't wait for the whole event to be over, because it's too much, it's everywhere, and it's really just getting plain annoying. 





Sources
http://fashionista.com/2011/04/report-kate-middletons-dress-designer-revealed/
http://entertainment.blogs.foxnews.com/2011/03/24/prince-william-and-kate-middleton-commemorative-refrigerator-hits-the-market/
http://www.people.com/people/package/article/0,,20395222_20474794,00.html

   
           

Our Boyfriend

The question in the papers this week is whether or not John Galliano will be able to make a comeback to the world of fashion. A land where his reputation for bad behavior is almost as solid as his recognition for his work. I'm sure everyone is informed of his less then graceful exit from Dior a few moths back as a result of anti-Semitic remarks made by the intoxicated designer. 
            In actuality the question is not whether Gallaino will return, instead a question of when. In society, as unfortunate as it may be, celebrities of every kind are permitted to behave in scandalous ways. The repercussions of said behavior are often mild or short lasting. In some cases they may not even exist at all. We the public put celebrities on pedestals, raising them high above ourselves, oftentimes glamorizing their raucous behavior, and boating their egos with constant praise. Equally as much, if not more, we like watching them fall from that pedestal, and take a hard slap off the gro
und of reality. We like to know they are in fact mere mortals like ourselves. Fortunately for the fallen, the blow is often fleeting cured by the admittance of wrong doing and a subsequent trip to rehab.
              The public is like that girl you know who keeps taking her cheating loser boyfriend back. He grovels, sends flowers, and promises to never ever to do it again, and in the space of a few days they are right as rain.
              Gallaino has already taken the steps necessary both apologizing and entering an "intensive" rehab program. The designer also recognized that recovery is "an ongoing process" and has enrolled in an "after care" program. Because our society is prone to forgive those repentant sinners, one often wonders if there is sincerity behind the act  or if it is merely and attempt to salvage a battered career?
              Either way, when all is said and done John Gallaino will be back in business, of that I'm sure. In my opinion, the recent scandal will have no lasting effect on his dollars or his sense ........the comeback might just have to wait....well, probably an extra six months. Although who knows, maybe he'll get time off for good behavior.



http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news?module=tn#/article/fashion-news/can-john-galliano-ever-come-back--3586039

Apples and Bananas

            Apple Inc, always seems to be one step ahead of the competition. Tdown to businesshey have the most technologically advanced products that the rest of the market struggles to copy as fast as possible. Not only do they offer reliable gizmos on the cutting edge accompanied by some of the best customer service I've ever personally experienced, they also have design down pat. Their products are sleek and modern  maintaining the hip image Apple has created for itself.
             With that in mind Apple recently coupled with Incase to produce a new line of iPhone and iPad cases, covers, and sleeves. With the permission of the Andy Warhol Foundation granted, the creations feature some of Warhol's most iconic works including 1966 banana, 1964 "Flower Print", 1966 "Cow Wallpaper", and 1982 "Dollar Sign".
                The marriage of Pop Art icon Andy Warhol and eternally hip Apple couldn't be more perfect! The new product line is available at goincase.com and through Apple stores and retailers worldwide.


Sources:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/04/08/pop-shop-andy-warhol-for-incase/?ref=design
http://www.lorensworld.com/top-picks-/item/834-incase-for-andy-warhol-collection-iphone-case.html

DUDE No.1

            Lately it seems the men, a largely ignored group in retail, are beginning to garner attention. It's become apparent to retailers that there is room for improvement and profitability.While it is true that women still spend more than men it has also true that male spending is on the rise. Men on the whole are becoming more fashion conscious seeking out style in magazines, store windows, and through peers. It seems as though the line between men and women is blurring. Each adapting elements of the other for an increasingly androgynous environment.
           Not only does androgyny apply to apparel, it extends to makeup. Male cosmetics companies are popping up like UK based MYEGO, that sells make up and male grooming products, for one. Other cosmetics brands are extending their product range to include products for men. Most recently Anne McClain founder of MCMC Fragrances in Brooklyn, produced the very first scent for beards. DUDE No.1 as it is cleverly titled is dual purpose first and foremost as a scent with hints of cedar wood, green coriander and pink peppercorn.Second, the organic oils that form the compound serve to moisturize the skin and tames unruly beards. The sleek yet simple packaging fully reflects the new male consumer and is intimidating. It's easy enough even for the lowest maintenance man.

Sources
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/04/12/vain-glorious-dude-no-1-beard-oil/?ref=mens-fashion

Get on the Bus

            The Chinese are the worlds nouveau riche. Currently China is the worlds second largest economy behind the United States. As in many economies the chasm between rich and poor runs deep, but the rich are certainly very, very, rich. What's more, they are big spenders in the luxury goods market. Though foreign companies are branching into the region, opening a business in China can be somewhat of a chore leading many companies to franchises or license their businesses.
             Shopping destinations around the globe in Europe, Asia, and America are recognizing an increase in the presence of the Chinese and their propensity to spend on big ticket items. The tendency is towards guided tours with stops in multiple cities. A recent Women s Wear Daily chronicled one of these tours stopping in New York, Boston, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles. It was like a "power shopping" trip across the country with little else on the agenda, well, aside from meeting former president Bill Clinton and a touch of gambling in Vegas. On this particular shopping excursion Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Chloe, Prada, and Ermendegildo Zenga were favorites. While Slavatore Ferragmo, Celine, and Balencagia were unfamiliar to the group. They were also buying up luxury brand watches, often more than one at a time and dropping as much as $50,000 each with no problem. According to the article, the Chinese concentrate on watches as a means of achieving differentiation and status rather than buying a lot of suits. Some were then even buying new suitcases to store all their treasures. Oh, and did i mention most of there transactions were done in cash!!!
             It is estimated that the Chinese will spend $55 billion on international travel and the number of travelers will increase 12-14% a year. They spend more money abroad than they do at home. With these kinds of numbers I think it would behoove retailers to adjust their game plans and become more China- friendly. Simple things like having a member of staff that speaks the language or having your staff learn a little bit about what the Chinese find offensive. Small investments like these could lead to healthy returns Also, finding ways to increase your brands recognition by the Chinese super spender. The methods could be really simple. In the case of one retailer catalogs were distributed on the bus and members of the tour simply picked out their purchases before arrival. I though it was a great way to ease some of the difficulties encountered with language barriers. The Chinese have no problem spending as long as they perceive excellence in a brand. So it is my suggestion that retailers, hop on the bandwagon or in this case......get on the bus!
           Can you think of any ways retailers could make an effort to appeal to the Chinese???
   
              

This Video is just some more information regarding the increasing economic power of China that I think is relevant.











Information provided by
http://www.wwd.com/retail-news/the-chinese-rich-hit-the-stores-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nse09-dKATI

The Wolf is on the Hunt

            Over recent months LVHM's possible takeover of Hermes has garnered extensive press. Bernard Arnault, the "wolf in cashmere" as he is know in business circles, founder of LVHM, is the shrewdest of businessmen and the toughest opponent in the industry of luxury goods. The company portfolio is vast including not only their namesake items but also brands such as Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Dom Perignon, Givenchy, and most recently majority stock in Bulgari to name a few.
           It was revealed a few months ago that the "wolf" had been quietly acquiring shares of Hermes, a family owned and operated enterprise for generations. Currently LVHM owns a 20% share in the company up from 17.1% in November. Though Arnault claims his interest is to be but "a long-term shareholder of Hermes", can he really be trusted? It would appear through Arnault's continued acquisition of shares that the "wolf" is on the hunt. Stalking his prey in a slow and calculated manner with the lethal strike imminent.The tale it seems, has the makings of a true David and Goliath story. But in this case who's to say that David emerges the victor? The financial might of LVHM may prove too much over time.
          While I admire the man for his ability to craft such a paramount luxury empire, I tend to agree with his critics who blast Arnault for "trading class for mass". Over the past two years the trend, brought on in part by Arnault himself, has been to acquire small family owned businesses and steer them away from the niche markets they once served in favor the masses. The result, in my opinion is a sort of degradation of the brand. Specialness and exclusivity are usurped from the image in favor of profitability. And while I am all for profits, they sometimes do come at a price.
          Past decisions of Arnault have included the sale of Dom Perignon at Costco beside Korbel, and Fendi becoming available outlet malls. In my mind one of the clearest examples of "class for mass" can be seen in the loss of exclusivity that Louis Vuitton bags have experienced. They seem, at least to me, have lost the cache that catapulted them to success in the first place.
           In a recent interview with China Daily Hermes CEO says "LVHM's participation is neither required nor desirable." The fear of many regarding this issue is that if Arnault were to become more than just a "long-term shareholder" of Hermes, as he claims is his sole interest, he would do what he has done in the past and diminish the heritage and craftsmanship associated with the brand. As it stands Hermes handbags such as the Kelly, are coveted possessions of the wealthy. Even the recession did not effect the year long waiting list. They are prized for their quality. Each bag is made by a single craftsperson with a single piece of thread from beginning to end. There is no doubt in my mind that this practice would surely fall to the wayside should Arnault continue to acquire shares in the company.

        Though often, as I have said before I am of the mind that business is business, in this case I'm routing for the underdog. What are your thoughts?










   Content provided by Newsweek, Forbes, and China Daily
   http://blogs.forbes.com/hannahelliott/2011/03/07/lvmh-acquires-majority-stake-in-bulgari/
   http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/xinhua/2011-03-05/content_1939918.html
   http://www.newsweek.com/2010/11/12/the-looming-battle-for-hermes.html

Don't Shoot the Messenger!

Proenza Schouler

            In the realm of retail, and fashion in particular, knock offs are commonplace. Shoppers know that they can count on fast fashion retailers like H&M and Forever 21 to produce styles similar to those seen on catwalks quickly and at an affordable price.  The similarities often outweigh the differences prompting even fashion magazines to devote pages to finding that "look for less". These days knocking off original designs is big business, bringing in big dollars, and big problems.

Mossimo

            Most recently in the news upscale design house Proenza Schouler is peeved to find that mass merchant Target has absconded with their PS1 messenger bag design. At first glance the differences are hardly noticeable, even down to the weight and slouch of the bag. The most obvious differences are the material, quality, and the price. Target's Mossimo bag is made of fake leather retailing for $34.99, while PS1 by Proenza Schouler is 100% leather retailing for $1595.  The designers and the company feel as though they have been robbed. Robbed of potential income for the brand and robbed of their ideas. To add insult to injury, prior to "Bag Gate 2011" Proenza Schouler inked a deal with Target allowing them to re-release 65 designs originally created by the company for Target's "Go International Program". So, not only will Target be receiving revenues from sales of the bag but also from a previous collaboration between the companies.
           In fashion it is hard to protect original ideas from what is essentially legal theft. Incidents like this, however common, raise important questions about what is ethical in business. I tend to be of the mind that business is business. When it comes right down to every decision is made to ensure a profitable bottom line, however unfortunate for the originator of the idea. Yes, Target will make more sales. Yes, they will make more money. Yes, they stole the idea, and yes, if it was my job I might do it too. But I take heart in the fact that the Proenza Schouler customer, different from the Target consumer, will not fall for these dirty tricks and at the end of the day will purchase PS1 in it intended glory. If you want to be in the fashion business things like this are an unavoidable consequence, so don't shoot the messenger.
            What do you think???




Information and Images courtesy of the New York Times
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/25/proenza-schouler-doesnt-care-for-targets-messenger/              




             

Rodarte Takes the Stage

      Few fashion designers have ventured into the world of costume design for major motion pictures. Relatively new to the scene the Mulleavy sisters, founders of Rodarte, have not only garnered headlines for their ready-to- wear collections but have also contributed their creative talents to costume design for the award winning "Black Swan". Riding high on their recent success the sisters refused to rest on their laurels venturing yet again into new territory, specifically the art world.
      Their latest project was a collaboration with The Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. The sisters featured pieces from their Spring 2010 show alongside darker pieces designed for "Black Swan". The end result was both ominous and enchanting. Tutus slowly spinning suspended above the ground were ghostly in their presents. Shadow an light played a large role in the overall effect. The point of all of this was to "defy patrons to see their clothing in a different light".
      By exhibiting their work in an artistic way that is open to the public Rodarte is allowing people up close access to their garments in an intimate setting. They are reaching a new set of potential customers, that because they have seen the garments in such a light, may have an appreciation for the brand that cannot be won through traditional formats. Having a show of this type is a creative and free way to increase brand recognition. Designer works are typically not exhibited in this was until the designer has passed on or has become an icon in the industry.  The sisters seem to be getting a head start.
        Additionally, given our fascination with all things pop culture the Mulleavy sisters involvement with the film and their subsequent display of the costumes alongside their ready-to-wear is a clever way to entice the public to visit. Those that came to see the costumes of "Black Swan" may leave having learned to appreciate fashion on the whole.
         What's more for those that could not make it to the exhibit the sisters will soon be releasing a book entitled "Rodarte: Photographs by Catherine Opie and Alec Soth".  the book will feature the brands signature pieces.
     In my opinion the Mulleavy sisters will be around for a long time, not only because of their success as fashion designers but also because of the "multi, multi, multi channel" visibility of their brand. 

 

  
Information and Images Provided by New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/03/29/fashion/29iht-frodarte-slideshow.html